Patek Philippe Unveils Its Latest Collection: From Aquanauts to a Chiming Timepiece with Gems

Days before Watches & Wonders, Patek Philippe announced its plan to introduce some exciting novelties into the Calatrava family, surprising informed observers. Despite being famously tight-lipped about its collections, the oldest independent, family-owned Genevan watch manufacture revealed its plans, leaving enthusiasts eager for more details about the upcoming additions. The brand-new additions to the line are white gold variations that provide its famous, dressy, round wristwatch line a new, modern, graphic appeal. These novelties feature a black dial with an embossed chequered pattern in a smaller circle at the center, elegantly juxtaposing with flashes of yellow, sky blue, or red found on the counters, seconds hands, and strap stitching (depending on whatever you choose).

Featuring a black dial, the sneak preview additions to the line are distinguished by an embossed chequered pattern in a smaller circle at the center. The strap stitching, seconds hands, and yellow, sky blue, or red flashes that may be found on the counters and straps contrast gracefully with the pattern.

A pocket watch depicting a leopard rendered in marquetry was unveiled in Geneva at its Salons from April 1 to 15 as a part of Patek Philippe’s “Rare Handcrafts 2023” line. The artwork involved the assembly of 50 inlays and 363 tiny veneer pieces utilising a variety of 21 wood species with various hues, grains, and veining.

But that’s not all. Patek Philippe had a few more surprises up its sleeve as it introduced its new watches in Geneva, which is also the home city of the Stern family for only the second time. Here’s a rundown of what they unveiled this time around.

Calatrava in White Gold (Refs. 6007G-001, 6007G-010 & 6007G-011)

Featuring white gold cases, ebony dials, and their own accent colors of red, yellow, or pale blue, Patek Philippe has unveiled three new Calatrava references. These accent colors are applied to the seconds track, seconds hand, indexes, and stitching of the matching leather strap, giving each watch a distinctly sporty feel. The dials are particularly intriguing, with a crosshatch pattern reminiscent of carbon fiber, matching the treatment on the strap.

Case Material: White gold

Straps: Leather with yellow, red, or blue stitching

Movement: Self-winding calibre 26-330 S C

Price: $37,850

Gondolo Serata in Rose Gold (Ref. 4962/200R)

This new iteration of the Gondolo Serata features a witty inversion of the tonneau watch shape with a brown-lacquered dial. Breguet numerals and a strap made of chocolate brown leather enhance the flowery decoration’s matt/polished contrast.

Patek Philippe takes pride in its Gondolo line, named after a boutique in Rio De Janeiro that purchased roughly a third of the watchmaker’s output during World War II. A two-tone impression is produced by this newest member of the family, whose case is set with 94 brilliant-cut spessartites (Patek calls to the colors as “cognac” and “mandarine”). In the late 1940s, watchmakers were among the first to explore the potential of electronic timekeeping, and a Quartz movement keeps working nonstop under a sturdy case back.

Case Size: 40.85 mm

Case and Bracelet Material: Rose gold and calfskin

Caliber: Caliber E 15

Battery life: About 3 yearsPrice: $40,216

Self-Winding Calatrava in Rose Gold (Ref. 4997/200R)

With its purple dial and rose-gold case, this self-winding model is one of the most striking new additions to the Calatrava lines. The dial is particularly noteworthy, featuring a pattern of concentric waves created from more than fifty layers of translucent lacquer, which gives it an impressive visual depth. Surrounding this stunning facade are rose-gilt powdered hour markers and 76 diamonds on either side.

Case Size: 35 mm

Case and Bracelet Material: Rose gold and calfskin

Caliber: Caliber 240

Power Reserve:  48 hours

Price: $38,441

Calatrava Travel Time in Rose Gold (Ref. 5224R)

Patek Philippe has added another rose gold, self-winding model to the Calatrava collection, which is widely regarded as the benchmark for dress watches since its introduction in 1932. This new addition features a 24-hour display, making it a great choice for those who travel frequently.

The case of the watch boasts curved, two-tier lugs, which add an impressive flourish to the design. A proprietary crown-operated correction device has been added to the conventional local time correction pushers on the left side of the caseband.

The navy blue dial of the watch features hand-laid rose gold appliques with contrasting finishes, and it received high praise in Geneva for its overall legibility and usability.

Case Size: 42 mm

Case and Bracelet Material: Rose gold and calfskin

Caliber: 31 260 PS FUS 24H

Power Reserve:  48 hours

Price: $57,366

Aquanaut Luce Annual Calendar in Rose Gold (Ref. 5261R)

Many watch enthusiasts believe that the sport watch as we know it today was effectively invented in 1972 when Audemars Piguet introduced the Royal Oak. However, with the introduction of the Nautilus and Aquanaut in 1976 and 1997, respectively, Patek Philippe marked two significant turning points in the history of sports watches.

Those who are disappointed with the former’s lack of upgrades may be encouraged by the latter’s innovative additions, such as this Aquanaut Luce model with a patented Annual Calendar. Its rose gold case, blue-gray dial, and strap significantly increase the possibilities available to Patek enthusiasts who prefer non-gem-set models of the type often targeted at ladies.

Case Size: 39.9 mm

Case and Bracelet Material: Rose gold and composite material

Caliber: 26-330 S QA LU

Power Reserve:  35 hours

Price: $61,506