Anthony Vaccarello Departs Saint Laurent After Ten Years

Anthony Vaccarello is leaving Saint Laurent after a decade as creative director, the house confirmed on Friday morning in Paris. His departure follows the spring 2027 runway show, which marked his tenth anniversary at the helm of the Kering-owned label. Saint Laurent stated that new creative leadership will be revealed soon, closing a chapter that saw the house’s identity and clientele sharply defined under Vaccarello’s vision.

Vaccarello took over as creative director in 2016, succeeding Hedi Slimane. In his first years, Vaccarello reintroduced the classic YSL branding, most memorably with a neon logo suspended above a show venue and the launch of the Opyum shoe, which replaced its stiletto heel with the interlocking YSL logo. His approach shifted the house from Slimane’s indie grunge to a grown-up, after-dark Parisian glamour, rooted in languid silhouettes and androgynous tailoring.

Throughout his tenure, Vaccarello emphasized a vision of liberated sensuality. “She can have sex with herself. She doesn’t need someone to do whatever she wants,” Vaccarello said of the Saint Laurent woman on the Fashion Neurosis podcast. His collections balanced elegance and abandon, blending sharp officewear with latex, leather, and micro-minis, and coining the phrase “bourgeois perversity” for the autumn/winter 2020 collection. The designer’s interest in fleeting ephemerality and high-octane glamour became a hallmark, with transparent nude looks and sheer micro-mini dresses drawing inspiration from cultural figures such as Marilyn Monroe.

Vaccarello’s era was marked by cinematic shows that turned Paris itself into his runway, including a high-drama presentation in the Agafay desert near Marrakech. His menswear, which began with a standalone show in 2018, became a pillar of his work, defined by soft, moody interpretations of the suit and a gender-fluid approach to tailoring. Hollywood quickly followed: red carpet regulars in Vaccarello’s designs included Zoë Kravitz, Hailey Bieber, Austin Butler, and Rami Malek. Kravitz, in particular, became closely associated with the house, with a Saint Laurent book, Zoë, released in her honor and a series of standout appearances spanning Met Galas and premieres.

Saint Laurent’s front rows grew into some of the most coveted seats in Paris, as Vaccarello’s vision attracted an array of celebrity ambassadors and muses. His shows routinely featured figures such as Amber Valletta, Kate Moss, Charlotte Casiraghi, Chloë Sevigny, Rosé, Anja Rubik, Charli XCX, and Zoë Kravitz. The designer’s influence extended to industry-wide trends, including the rise of corpcore and office siren looks, as well as the revival of the hooded capuche dress.

Financially, Vaccarello’s leadership saw Saint Laurent’s revenue nearly triple, reaching a peak of 3.3 billion euros, according to Business of Fashion. After 2023, growth slowed as aspirational customers pulled back on luxury spending, prompting a shift toward wealthier clientele. Revenue fell to 2.6 billion euros in 2025, but the house returned to growth in the first half of 2026.

Luca de Meo, CEO of Kering, thanked Vaccarello for his decade of creative leadership, saying, “With his creative vision and high standards, he has helped to strengthen the lasting influence of one of the greatest French couture houses as we open a new chapter in its history.” The magazine has also looked at the oldest and most lucrative luxury brands in the world.

The next creative director of Saint Laurent will be announced soon, as Paris and the wider industry watch closely for the house’s next move.