Biver Launches First Stainless Steel AB Watch

Biver has released the AB, its first stainless steel watch, available now and priced at CHF 68,000. The launch comes after collectors repeatedly requested a steel-cased model from the brand, which until now had focused on precious metals. Biver described the AB as a response to customer demand, saying the idea was to give them a stainless steel watch “that these kinds of customers could wear without worrying about precious metals or being too delicate with it.” The magazine has also looked at JC Biver’s earlier tourbillon collaboration.

The AB stands out for its compact 38mm by 9.8mm case and a manually wound movement developed with Le Cercle des Horlogers. The new caliber, JCB-004, is exclusive to Biver and delivers a power reserve of approximately 120 hours, using twin barrels and running at 3Hz. The movement is built from a white gold alloy, PD210, chosen for its resistance to corrosion and its ability to showcase hand-finishing without rhodium or nickel plating. Biver includes a zero-reset mechanism for the seconds hand. That allows precise time-setting each time the crown is pulled out.

The dial construction is central to the AB’s identity. Sculpted from a single piece of 2N yellow gold, the dial is finished with a fine-grained black DLC coating. That allows the gold’s champagne tone to frame the central section and the small seconds display at six o’clock. The hour and minute track is formed from onyx, whose deep black surface contrasts with the gold indices and hands, both applied using a metallization process. A discreet power reserve indicator arcs beneath 12 o’clock, with a miniature gold pointer tracking the remaining 120 hours. The hands are razor-sharp dauphine in 18k yellow gold, finished and beveled by hand.

Biver’s stainless steel case keeps the brand’s signature angular, protruding lugs, with most surfaces satin-finished and hand-beveled edges catching the light. The bracelet, also in steel, uses a patented micro-adjust system activated by two push buttons and omits a traditional end link, leaving the lugs and case lines fully visible. Quick-release spring bars allow the bracelet to be swapped for a supplied Bahia calfskin strap.

The AB’s case design draws on elements seen in earlier Biver models, with geometric lugs that recall classic references but with subtle changes to the bezel that affect how the watch sits on the wrist. The bracelet’s trapezoidal links are a recurring motif for the brand, and the new micro-adjust system will be introduced to other models in the future, according to Biver. The case is water resistant to 80 meters, and the watch comes with both a steel bracelet and a leather strap. That gives owners flexibility in how they wear it. Sapphire crystals with a slight dome and internal antireflective coating are used on both sides, preserving the depth and detail of the dial.

The movement’s architecture allows the two barrels to be seen in series, and the winding system is designed with a distinctive click and strong resistance as the power reserve is built up. The power reserve indicator is integrated into the dial in a way that does not disturb its symmetry, with a golden pin moving from left to right as the watch is wound. Each AB is assembled from start to finish by a single watchmaker, a process the brand says is consistent across its collection. The finishing includes circular graining, sandblasting, and mirror polishing, all visible through the caseback.

Collectors responded to early descriptions of the AB with unusual speed. Yoni Ben-Yehuda, head of watches at Material Good in New York, sent a message about the watch to a group of Biver collectors before images were released, prompting members to wire deposits immediately. Jeremy Roizin, one of the collectors, said, “There’s a lot of times where you just have to trust the watchmakers, and you know the retailer has good enough taste, to get this done.” The waitlist for the AB now extends to 2029, with all current production spoken for before most collectors had seen the watch in person.

Assembly of each AB is overseen from start to finish by a single watchmaker, in keeping with the brand’s approach to craftsmanship. According to Biver, the watch isn’t a limited edition.

The AB is available now at CHF 68,000, or around $80,000.