Every year, Geneva Watch Days becomes the epicenter of horological innovation and luxury craftsmanship, attracting watch enthusiasts and connoisseurs from around the world. In 2023, Bulgari took center stage at this prestigious event, bringing to life the theme of ‘duality in nature.’ This concept was artfully expressed through the use of materials, colors, and shapes, both old and new, resulting in a collection that captivated watch aficionados. Here are the standout pieces from Bulgari’s showcase:
Bulgari Octo Finissimo CarbonGold Perpetual Calendar and Bulgari Octo Finissimo CarbonGold Automatic
The Octo Finissimo collection, already renowned for its excellence, expanded its horizons in 2023. Bulgari introduced the Bulgari Octo Finissimo CarbonGold Perpetual Calendar (Ref. 103778) and the Bulgari Octo Finissimo CarbonGold Automatic (Ref. 103779). Both timepieces maintain the collection’s signature 40mm dimensions while embracing a new aesthetic.
The cases, straps, and dials of these watches are meticulously crafted from lightweight, anthracite-colored carbon with a matte finish. The introduction of gold accents in the form of hour markers, hands, and crowns adds a touch of opulence to the otherwise contemporary design. These timepieces are not just visually striking but also highly functional, with a water resistance of up to 100 meters.
The star of the show is the Octo Finissimo CarbonGold Perpetual Calendar, a masterpiece that continues the legacy of its award-winning predecessor. With a remarkable slimness of 7.60mm, it houses the redesigned Calibre BVL 305, measuring just 2.75mm thick and offering a 60-hour power reserve. The watch features a range of complications, including retrograde date, day of the week, month, and retrograde leap year indications. Furthermore, it requires no adjustments until the year 2100. The bracelet of Ref. 103778 boasts a folding clasp in steel with a DLC coating.
On the other hand, the Octo Finissimo CarbonGold Automatic boasts a small second subdial at 7 o’clock and is powered by the automatic Caliber BVL 138, which features a platinum micro-rotor. This movement is incredibly thin, measuring just 2.23mm, and offers a 60-hour power reserve. Both watches feature transparent casebacks secured by eight precious metal screws and are adorned with Côte de Genève-decorated rose gold bridges and a rose gold-plated platinum oscillating weight.
Bulgari Serpenti Misteriosi
Bulgari’s iconic Serpenti design is a symbol of the brand’s elegance and creativity, appearing across jewelry, leather goods, and watches. In 2023, the Serpenti Misteriosi collection welcomed two new captivating iterations.
The first is the Serpenti Misteriosi in white gold (Ref. 103795), adorned with a mesmerizing array of diamonds totaling 32.91 carats. The second, in rose gold (Ref. 103884), features black lacquer scales set with navette-cut diamonds at intervals. Both watches boast dials entirely paved with diamonds, concealed beneath a serpent’s head with emerald eyes. The unique mechanism allows the wearer to lift the serpent’s head, revealing the dial beneath.
These exquisite timepieces showcase Bulgari’s artisanal expertise, with each hexagonal scale meticulously created using a delicate lost-wax technique dating back over 6,000 years. The lacquering process draws inspiration from ancient Egyptian enameling techniques, showcasing a lineage of craftsmanship that Bulgari has honed since the 1960s.
Powered by the manual-winding BVL 100 movement, measuring just 2.5mm thick, both watches offer a 30-hour power reserve. For added convenience, an interchangeable quartz movement is available for those who prefer a hassle-free winding experience.
Monete Catene High Jewellery Secret Watch and Monete Catene Dual Time High Jewellery Secret Watch
Bulgari’s Monete watches pay homage to the concept of ‘Gemme Nummarie,’ where coins are treated as precious gems. This theme, close to the heart of Nicola Bulgari, the grandson of Bulgari’s founder, Sotirios Bulgari, has inspired the creation of the Monete Catene High Jewellery Secret Watch (Ref. 103870) and the Monete Catene Dual Time High Jewellery Secret Watch (Ref. 103871).
Ref. 103870 features a denarius coin depicting Roman emperor Caracalla, while Ref. 103871 showcases two coins representing emperor Septimius Severus and empress Julia Domna. These coins act as a ‘cover’ for the secret watches, which, when lifted, reveal diamond-paved dials.
The Monete Catene High Jewellery Secret Watch boasts an octagonal case adorned with diamonds, inspired by the Maxentius Basilica’s ceiling in Rome. The rose gold curb chain bracelet adds a touch of elegance to the timepiece.
The Dual Time High Jewellery Secret Watch offers a more intricate design with two coins shielding two dials, each displaying a different time zone. Combining yellow gold, white gold, and rose gold, along with baguette and brilliant-cut diamonds in a snow setting, this watch exemplifies Bulgari’s artistry.
Both watches feature emerald cabochons on the case sides, allowing easy access to the hidden dials. The bracelet of the Monete Catene Dual Time cuff is a luxurious combination of yellow gold, gem-set rose gold, and white gold bars set with baguette diamonds.
In conclusion, Bulgari’s 2023 collection presented at Geneva Watch Days truly embodies the theme of ‘duality in nature,’ showcasing the brand’s ability to seamlessly blend tradition and innovation, materials old and new, and timeless elegance with contemporary flair. Each timepiece in this collection is a testament to Bulgari’s dedication to craftsmanship and luxury watchmaking.
