Jean Paul Gaultier Ready-to-Wear by Duran Lantink

Duran Lantink presented his latest ready-to-wear collection for Jean Paul Gaultier in a mirrored space that reflected every angle. That brought his evolving vision for the storied French brand into sharper focus, with a pronounced emphasis on construction, anatomical references, and a growing sense of wearability.

Lantink, who became creative director of the Puig-owned house in April 2025, has made a point of exploring both the experimental and commercial sides of Jean Paul Gaultier. For spring, he described his inspiration as “finding different personalities within one character,” aiming to balance strict tailoring with sensual, free-spirited elements. “When you think of the Gaultier person, it’s somebody who can wear strict tailoring but also be sensual and a bit of a hippie,” Lantink said.

The opening look, a pristine white coatdress with exaggerated shoulders and a sculpted lapel, set the tone for a collection that pushed familiar pieces out of shape. Jackets with collars thrust forward created unusual necklines. A sharply defined hourglass blazer revealed its jutting structure only as the model walked. Other jackets had large porthole openings at the chest, showing neo-cone bras, which refer back to the house’s earlier designs.

Lantink’s tailoring drew on a mix of Western, Gothic, and folkloric references, including tartan skirt suits with contrasting collars and floral motifs reminiscent of alpine traditions. Bells, inspired by a glove from the house’s 1989 archive, appeared as literal, jangling details on checked shirts and skirts. “I was inspired by a glove with tassels and bells that I found here in a closet, and it was a collection from 1989. I thought the sound was amazing,” Lantink explained.

While the collection’s experimental edge remained intact, Lantink said there’s more wearability in this season, and that is the direction he wants to take the ready-to-wear. Even the basics, low-rise jeans, off-center buttoned and paired with backless halter tops, came with a twist, styled with the house’s new split-toe shoes.

Jean Paul Gaultier, which after the founder’s 2020 retirement wound down its ready-to-wear offering, is now gradually rebuilding its presence. Lantink’s approach draws from his experience in both couture and pre-collections. That allows him to experiment with shapes before translating them to more accessible pieces. He said that as he works on different collections, he is learning how to separate them while keeping them in the same world.

This season also marked the expansion of the house into footwear, a move Lantink described as a priority. Shoes in a range of colorways and iterations, from flats to heels to lace-ups, appeared throughout the show, underlining the house’s new direction. The ready-to-wear line is available at 120 points of sale and, since October 1, through a pop-up at Galeries Lafayette in Paris. The pop-up, located on the second floor next to Courrèges, showcases several sculptural gowns from the Fall/Winter 2026 show. Alix Morabito, chief merchandising officer at Galeries Lafayette, said Lantink is taking Jean Paul Gaultier’s creative approach and reworking it for the current season.

The magazine has also looked at Chanel’s Spring/Summer ready-to-wear collection.