Pierpaolo Piccioli Departs as Balenciaga Creative Director

Pierpaolo Piccioli will leave his post as creative director at Balenciaga, as confirmed by parent company Kering on Thursday. Piccioli’s tenure, which began in July 2025, ends after less than two years, during which he was tasked with interpreting the house’s couture heritage while navigating its streetwear legacy. The company stated that a new creative direction for Balenciaga will be announced shortly.

Kering CEO Luca de Meo described Piccioli as an “exceptional couturier and creative talent for whom we have the greatest respect.” Gianfranco Gianangeli, Balenciaga’s chief executive, said, “Through his vision, he reaffirmed the couture origins of the house, bringing his considered approach to craftsmanship, construction and creativity. I would like to sincerely thank him for his dedication, generosity and collaboration.” The announcement comes as Kering faces simultaneous creative transitions at Saint Laurent and McQueen, with both houses also seeking new creative leads.

Piccioli joined Balenciaga in May 2025 following a 25-year career at Valentino, where he was known for his mastery of color and a couture sensibility that brought emotional resonance to the runway. At Balenciaga, he succeeded Demna, whose decade-long tenure had transformed the house with a blend of satire and streetwear, resulting in significant commercial growth. Piccioli’s debut collection for Balenciaga, shown during Paris Fashion Week in October 2025, drew on founder Cristóbal Balenciaga’s archives, with a focus on sculptural shapes and couture flourishes. The show, staged at Kering’s Laennec headquarters, featured oversized glasses, a voluminous white shirt with a train, and a leather bubble bomber jacket.

Throughout his three seasons, Piccioli’s collections explored the house’s signature sack silhouette and pragmatic beauty, with elevated interpretations of everyday ensembles and sculpted outerwear. His designs found favor among celebrities, including Meghan Markle, who appeared in a custom ivory look at his debut, as well as Ariana Grande, Rosalia, and Demi Moore. The reception to his work was measured, with critics noting his challenge in balancing Cristóbal Balenciaga’s monumental couture legacy with Demna’s street-style influence. “He’s needed to figure out where he stands between the monumental Cristóbal couture legacy and the monumental Demna social satirist street-style legacy, and to do so in real time. That’s no easy task for anyone, no matter how experienced they may be,” wrote Vogue Runway’s Sarah Mower.

Financially, Balenciaga’s performance during Piccioli’s tenure was mixed. According to Morgan Stanley estimates, sales fell from €1.65 billion in 2024 to €1.47 billion in 2025. Kering noted that while leather goods such as the City and Rodeo bags performed well, ready-to-wear and shoes struggled, prompting a need for new lines and products. The group’s strategy aims to double women’s ready-to-wear and accelerate leather goods by 2030, with a particular focus on growth in the Americas.

Piccioli’s departure had been anticipated in recent weeks, following reports that his couture-driven style wasn’t translating into the commercial results Kering sought, especially in menswear. Industry speculation has already turned to possible successors, with London-based designer Martine Rose rumored as a contender for the role.

Shortly after the announcement, Piccioli posted on Instagram with a photo of him in the Balenciaga couture salons and behind-the-scenes images, writing: “Thank you, then. For the work done, for the hands, for the courage, for the care; thank you to all those who have shared this perspective and walked beside me along this path. Without maps and without compromise. You know who you are. And, despite everything, keep shining. Always. Love, Pp.”

The magazine has also looked at Kim Kardashian’s Balenciaga moment at the Baby2Baby Gala and other major creative director departures.